Mint White 680W: https://bit.ly/3SUShlr Mint White 880W: https://bit.ly/3zETcQd All Mammoth lights: https://bit.ly/3DyGkfk LM301H EVO Datasheet: https://bit.ly/3Ui1Ony ***FREE LED Grow Light Buyer’s Guide Checklist: https://bit.ly/3i4uRZ0*** Other products* in this video: GGT 4×4 tent: https://bit.ly/3dyP3Ao Apogee MQ-500 Quantum Sensor: https://amzn.to/2vadoeu We offer bulk/commercial discounts! Inquire: Email: [email protected] Phone: +1 (888) 611-9305 Sign-up for our FREE Affiliate Program (make money by promoting our products): https://ledgrowlightsdepot.idevaffiliate.com Follow us on: Instagram: http://bit.ly/2t3xeFU TikTik: https://bit.ly/3DWeQll Review by Erik from www.LEDGrowLightsDepot.com *Amazon affiliate links
45 Replies to “Mammoth Lighting Mint Series 6-Bar 680W Review”
Greedings from germany, i hope my schoolenglish is ok enough to understand me, im not shure🤷 well, i dont like this ppfd its not high enough on the growtentwall or to high in the center, so its not even/evenly enough, and cheaper diodes with a 50-70 degree optik was better and the complete light was cheaper, so more people can buying the light, the light dimensions for 700 is to small, no really strong dark green diodes to stabelisted the green-colour/chlorophyll in the genetik of the plants, and no uvc with dimmerknob, no uvb with dimmer, no uva with dimmer, uv is good for calcium metabolism and makes the plants stronger to protect and defent for hungry little micro pets/bugs,,,,,,,, 🤷 uv makes strong an big plants and its better than skinny plants, and when i dimm the light get all the kelvin down? No, so its not good 🤔 making grow lights is going better🤷 greedings from wrongdog
can you solve by just raising the fixture and keeping on higher setting?
Facts man optics way bettwr
Mammoth makes a 2 bar UVA/B addon with a separate 100w driver 395nm UVA and 310nm UVB.
@Scotties Garden really only 2 choices for optics: FOHSE or Scynce.
It better work good
Mammoth for the win. We have 50+ of the previous fold in our facility. Amazing quality and service.
Mammoth isn’t anything special those mint chips are lame where’s the reds and blues all white full spec optic for the win
@Scotties Garden “where are the reds and blues”. Lol. That is what the mint white diode is – 435nm blue!!!!
Why are those mint white diodes lame? Samsung and university research shows higher photosynthetic plant response with the 435 nm peak vs 450nm. Tell everyone why their research and top of the line newest diode is wrong you are right?
It’s their top of the line diode. Optic doesn’t have that. Just some added 450nm blue. Mammoth and all other led manufactures already have that with standard white diodes. So Mammoth now has 450blue and 435nm blue with the mint white diode + 660deep and 730far red. Your optic only has deep red. So your optic has less red and less blue (only 450nm)- exact opposite of what you think. 😂
Yes we have the previous model at work “i work for headyco lol” an they work amazing i use the previous model at my house with amazing results also would love to try one of these new models out tho they look and sound awsome
You mentioned it was tested in a 5 x 5 and it says that under the par map but on the right side of the par map it says it’s 4 feet, also with 8 par readings along any side seems it may be a 4 foot map?
You know this light is good when the comment section has industry rats making stuff up. If this light was a person it probably be able to fight Mike Tyson. Right now I cannot afford another light but I’m going to keep my eyes and mind open to this company. I’ve been advocating for less red and more green. The blue for sure will bring out the terps which is nice to have while smoking… Means I wouldn’t have to switch out my entire light setup or bulb if mh hps. Stop burning up the gas so no one can smell or taste your weed for how it should be. Since its legal now a lot of phony markets and im sure tech is going to go into devastating peoples grow lives and wallets.
Interesting light, interesting use of the blue or shorter wavelength in lighting. I’m excited and interested in learning as much as I can when it comes to innovative lighting technologies. I think it’s interesting how the blue and red wavelengths work together for different, yet better in terpene production, for instance. I love the lighting technology that’s out currently, we’re making headway by leaps and bounds.
It only makes good sense to use 430 and 460nm for both chlorophyll a and b. Seems like most company’s are concentrating on 450/60nm and not worrying about the lower end of chlorophyll A. So These evos have to be helping.
@Skidmarkdoa On Fire They most certainly are! It seems like if they do offer the light with the UV-B, it is really only going to be helpful in smaller amounts. For some reason fifteen minutes per 12 hours comes to mind. Dr. Bruce Bugbee or a related article is where I believe I’ve heard it from. Don’t quote me, I’m no doctor!! I just hear your concerns about the UVB and in the presentation and articles that I read on it, showed UVA being the only real benefactor. Maybe it was the UVC they were talking about and not the UVB. I’m no expert.
@Jake Brake I think it’s fine by itself. My personal opinion. Could add some 395nm uva in very small amounts but I think it would just be better to use that for secondary lighting combining uvb and uva. The 435 is going to help with color taste and smell as it is. There getting this down slow but sure on ratios. I use t5 pure uv on some but don’t start till week five and it’s only a few min 3 times a day working up to 15min 4 times a day last 2 weeks. That’s uvb and A
@Skidmarkdoa On Fire Thanks for the clarification!
My dude, your numbers off of a mylar floor are meaningless.
There is some reflection off the floor but more of it is from the sides of the tent. The light intensity from the fixture greatly outweighs any small amount of light bouncing up from the bottom of the tent. But, yes, it would be better to do with a black floor. Thanks for pointing that out 🙂
@LED Grow Lights Depotaccording to Migro it inflates numbers 20+%
@Ricky Bobby mmm. I haven’t noticed that with my readings when I compare them to the manufacturer’s readings. I do agree that it would be better to make the floor black. Maybe I’ll make a video comparing an open floor vs a black floor.
@LED Grow Lights Depot awesome I’ve always wanted to see that, thank you, seriously.
@LED Grow Lights Depot Is the par map for a 4×4 or 5×5 for this light?
Would you rate the mammoth 680 a top 10 light today??
Based on the components, specs, and price…yes.
@LED Grow Lights Depot will this be at a discounted price for black friday or cyber monday sales?
@LED Grow Lights Depot and when will you have it back in stock??
Issue being a geek of all tech is I even want to upgrade my lights every other review 😆 and out of most of my hardware they wont be going out or date or becoming slow for a very long time. I have two GLS grow 200 lights, I really want a bar fixture that will fit min 90/90 but will max a 120/120
The PhotonTek X 465W or Grower’s Choice ROI-E420 might be worth considering 🙂
Question for you? how come you test all of your lights incorrectly with a mylar floor? It gives false readings. You need a non reflective floor to mimic canopy. All of your tests and readings would read more par than if they were tested on non reflective floor. Canopys dont reflect light they absorb it. Tents are filled canopy on floor in real world testing….not mylar….
Hey I’m thinking of doing a 4×4 grow tent and I was wondering do you know how much this light would cost monthly on a electric bill, I live in Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 but I’m good with math so I can convert $USD & and what’s the price
Sux the guy backed out. But yea definitely, HID (hps/mh/cmh etc…) are still an excellent light system. For veg 400w hps is fine. Although MH would be better for veg and the 1000w hps for flower. But the 400w will do just fine for veg.
About the selling part, you’re prob better just keeping em for spares. But “IF” you are gonna sell, would that mean you’re gonna invest in LED ?
The trade off might not be expected cos HPS can pull some hefty nugs, sometimes even better than LED – but LED will save you power in the long run. Irrespective of the upfront cost of the fixture(s). Nonetheless, LED will perform just as good as HPS, but the only reason to drop the HPS would be for the power bill… or to try a different light system. They’re perfectly fine to keep if you’re okay with the power bill.
@Freedom Born well my plan is this- I live in Northern Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 and in the last 2 years we got a cold cold front in Sept and it fuks the plants that are not budding enough to handle the cold, because at first I thought a strong big plant cud handle cold but I was wrong because the plants that were further into the budding stages were fine unharmed, so I want to start my seeds and get them to a nice healthy size so I can put them out as soon as it goes +14hours of sunlight, and to get clones big. That is what I want to do and since money is tight I don’t got all the money for the tents and the fans and the exhaust system and new LED’s, so I was thinking of popping my seeds in early Feb2023 and get them going then put them under a light I was thinking of the 400watt hps light I have and veg them a train them for 2 plus months till the weather and sun is out long enough at least 14hours… Do you have any suggestions?…
I understand entirely. I’m tight on budget too. So all these fancy lights make me green with envy – but i did manage to get a local company to custom make me a (6) bar style (480w) one.
BUT – big But – i use the sun almost everyday for at least 8hrs in short seasons and 12-14 in long (spring/summer) seasons. Then back under the light for the remaining hours. So I’m essentially only using the light for 6hrs most times. Cos longer sun season is good enough for flower hours without having to use the light… and i guess being Down Under, my sun is pretty intense – even in winter.
But yea, I’ll pop beans then give them a much sun as they can handle everyday, then under lights for the remainder. I try to time the seasons with my grows, but generally and ideally I’d prefer they (all ages) get at least 8hrs sun… even if seeds have to be partially covered/shaded.
Hi again Veronica. Just thought I’d try something.
ᴵ’ᵐ ᵍᵒⁿⁿᵃ ˢᵉᵉ ᶦᶠ ᶦ ᶜᵃⁿ ᵇʸᵖᵃˢˢ ʸᵀ ʳᵉˢᵗʳᶦᶜᵗᶦᵒⁿˢ ᵃⁿᵈ ᵖᵒˢᵗ ᵗʰᶦˢ ˡᶦⁿᵏ ᶠᵒʳ ˡᶦᵍʰᵗ ⁽ʷᵃᵗᵗˢ⁾ ᶜᵃˡᶜᵘˡᵃᵗᵒʳ. You’ll have to type it into your search bar. It’s *really* useful.
That’s a hell of a lot of evo blues in that light. And I don’t know why they did t use Samsung H instead of B
Thanks for the note. Generally speaking, the H and B are the same diode. Our Samsung Rep has confirmed. Only difference is they add a protective coating on the H…and call it horticulture. We do the same coating inhouse. So – it is less expensive to build with the B’s.
Yes the H and B are nearly identical. It’s marketing.
@Mammoth Lighting nice to know. I thought the H was a little more efficient. Thanks for writing back
Would you pick the mammoth 880 mint or the photontek 1000w?
Did they mention the CRI? It looked pretty nice but my eyes aren’t as finely tuned as the instrumentation that takes those readings.
Question for you? how come you test all of your lights incorrectly with a mylar floor? It gives false readings. You need a non reflective floor to mimic canopy. All of your tests and readings would read more par than if they were tested on non reflective floor. Canopys dont reflect light they absorb it. Tents are filled canopy on floor in rral world testing….not mylar….